Watching--Time Flying!

And I thought blogging was easy...ha! My hat is off to those faithful daily bloggers...it's a commitment.

Today's blog depicts some "local color" around the Sorbonne...I still love to see that name carved into the stone with the flags flying and the guards in their blue uniforms and hats.

There are pictures of some students, Deli's Cafe and its owner, friends at Deli's Cafe and while studying hard :)~ and Brian, owner of The Abbey Bookstore.
Deli's Cafe is about 2 rues away from the Pantheon, on rue Soufflot. It is one of the first cafes I visited on my first trip to Paris and they make great coffee, are friendly, the price is right and it's a good place to chat with new people.

Like, Daniel, a doctor of intensive care medicine...or my friends from class...Hitomi, Tal, Kania and Ching Ting. I had the best time with them after the last lecture last Friday...just laughing :))

Brian is featured, not for his bookstore--The Abbey--which is famous in Paris, but to thank him for telling me where to find a copy of FUSAC, an English language magazine with job listings. He offered me spiced cider on a day when I was a bit surly, and this is to thank him for his kindness. He can be found at 29, rue de la Parcheminerie, 75005, Paris, Metro: St. Michel/Cluny.

Until next time...ciao! Lilou

Watching--a Pub from Brittany--Nominoe

If you are looking for an intimate pub with good ambiance and a taste of Brittany, search no further. You can find these things at Nominoe, so named after the first King of Brittany.

The owner is from Brittany and the address is 13 rue de Castex, 75004, Ph: 01-42-72-95-35, Metro: Bastille, near Place Bastille.

The lighting is dark, but not too dark, just intimate. The floor is inlaid with broken pieces of colored tile, which makes the floor both attractive and practical. The space is small, but large mirrors have been mounted on the walls, which enlarge the space and permit people-watching. The light reflects warmly in the bottles behind the bar and in the mirrors.

The seating is unusual for either pub or restaurant. On one side of Nominoe there are two small, very low tables with cubes and a bench for seating. On the opposite wall is mounted a bar-height shelf. Customers seated or standing here face the wall to eat and drink. The third surface for customers is the bar itself, at which place customers can talk with the owner.

This arrangement possibly does not provide the most conducive environment for camaraderie. I would suggest replacing the shelf on the wall opposite the tables with a long, narrow table and two benches, which would allow for more comfortable eating and socializing.

The dinner began with Chouchenn, a very strong aperitif from Brittany. It is a form of mead and is made by the fermentation of honey in water. I am now a fan of Chouchenn. This was followed by a dozen fresh oysters from the farm of the owner’s sister. They were delicious—even without lemon. Sliced sausage from Brittany was served next, accompanied by a jar of tuna salad—label on—made with fresh ingredients and accompanied with bread and butter. These also were delicious.

Knives for the butter and napkins were absent. However, I am not certain if the owner wishes to emphasize serving food, or just alcohol, because there were few food items and no dessert items listed on the blackboard. The owner, after several years in the restaurant business, opened Nominoe for himself…it is the realization of a personal goal…so, he is now free to do what he wishes.

The customers seemed to be having a good time, and their laughter and conversation added to the warm ambiance. The music selection was superb and the owner was friendly.



So I suggest, “Give it a try.” Nominoe is a unique place in Paris.



Until next time…Lilou

Watching--Haiku du Jour

Before dawn, after sunset

High, sweet bird voices fly to

My ears...a private smile...

C.T. and K.Y.

Classmates...we talk...one blissful :)

One is unhappy :(

Popular today

Three meet-ups on horizon

Two men, one woman

Best friend in Paris

Works hard on my apartment

And gives me fruit, too!

It's late...up at 6

Must shovel mess into place

So I can to bed.

Ciao! Lilou

Watching--Gray Skies, Minding Ps and Qs

It’s a gray, misty-rain day today, not conducive to grabbing the old photo appareil. I’m mulling the school schedule—10 hours daily lecture, followed by a 3 hours conference (professors’ lecture series) 2 days per week, and phonetics for 1 hour each day (where I hopefully will learn to discipline the muscles of tongue, mouth and soft palette such that the sounds of French language will magically issue forth). The pondering is about time for work.

Work requires afternoons be as free as possible, so juggling to keep all balls in the air…school…work…money...shall become a new talent :)) Did someone say, “What about fun?” Concerts, museum shows (Edvard Munch coming up), a trip to Belgium, a trip to Britanny…all these would be great! For now, fun is had by simply being here…stretching a little each day.

An excellent thing happened after class today. Yesterday I met a colleague of my professor, and now I’ve been invited to get together with her, her husband and my professor. The colleague is married to an American, and the three feel it would be good for me to meet them. That is very kind of them…amazingly so.

Fellow students today were more open and chatty…we’re on Day 5. School itself is becoming a little more difficult each day…

Today’s photo selection is primarily of clouds in Paris, to suit the gray day.

Most of these were taken at Parc Andre Citroen,

although the girls on the bridge are near the

Sorbonne, and the guy on the cell phone is at La Defense.

Enjoy! Ciao maintenant… Lilou

Watching Ducks Walk on Water

Today was the day for watching ducks walk on water, frozen fountains and pigeons on the heads of naked heroes—among other things.

French class was more difficult today. I have that sinking feeling that comes when internally scrambling to keep up, already knowing that it might not be possible. I have asked my teacher for special guidance, as I’m not here for just a semester…hopefully, it will be for life. He chuckled, flashed merry eyes, tapped a finger to his temple, and said, “ha ha…I already have some ideas in mind for you.” That’s good!

It was sunny here today, and cold. This does not stop anyone from being out and about…or soaking up some rays at Luxembourg. That’s a fabulous place for open-sky vistas, sun and visiting.

Today also marked the business transaction of buying renter’s insurance…it’s required by law here. I was expecting to pay 118 euros for one year, but, for reasons too boring to explain in a blog, the price crept up to 150 euros. This is a big difference. But, hey, I got a free pen :)

Yesterday and today also brought a couple interesting conversations with classmates. Two of them came up to me yesterday and asked what I thought of our classmates, because they thought our fellow students were stand-offish. I had to agree that a couple of them were just plain snobby—wearing their good schools and elitism like badges—they are dismissive folk.

But, the rest are just a little shy. It is only the third day of school. My two new buddies and I have vowed to get together for lunch and chat about “gurl” stuff and gossip.

The conversation I had today involved a student’s habit of not saying he is Jewish, based on the theory that since France is a country with strong Catholic roots, perhaps other religious persuasions might be discriminated against. This topic is uncomfortable for me to address, primarily because I have little first-hand experience of Parisian attitudes toward non-Catholics, and secondarily because I have done no research on the subject, and have just a handful of anecdotal information.

My sense of the situation is that where there is prejudice, it is not as explosive as the Civil Rights marches of the ‘60’s in the U.S. I think it exists, but might be based more on the actions of people and their assimilation into French life. Level of education is very important, too, as well as being born in France or of French heritage. I have heard only one person (a 21-year old policeman) say he hated Muslims (this after the famous car-burning incidents of a couple years ago).

As I am poorly informed about the topic, it isn’t proper to say more. What I really enjoyed was talking to my classmates...and of course, Paris.

Ciao maintenant and a bientot! Lilou

Paris--I Like to Watch

I came to Paris on a “use it or lose it” ticket. My year to “use it” was just about up, so I ventured forth in April 2006. George Bush was in office and I thought the people of Paris may not be so welcoming to an American. I studied French before coming so I could be polite. Other than that, I had no preconceived notions—no vie en rose ideas—about Paris. A virgin page…

Well, people here were great. My first day, I joined a city-wide manifestation (demonstration) against Chirac. I saw almost all of Paris in one afternoon due to the students of the Sorbonne. That same day, I met a student, who introduced me to her family, who subsequently invited me to their home for a 5-course dinner overlooking the Bassin de Villette.

I toured Paris by walking from park to park. It gave me the opportunity to talk to people along the way, and to “feel” the people and the city by being in local neighborhoods. Many conversations have been had by merely shoving my mini-Larousse back and forth across the table.

People in Paris read the news and formulate opinions on it…and whether they’re right or wrong, they have strong, considered opinions. They are passionate about—everything—and can discuss the smallest details forever. And, they are warm-hearted and kind. I have never had a bad experience with any French people since I’ve been here…not even the waiters.

Besides the people, there is the sky and the clouds. This is difficult to explain, but, the sky seems to be taller than that over the ocean. The light has a clarity I’ve never experienced before…it seems to be pure white, untainted with yellows. The layered clouds entrance me. The layers always move, frequently at different speeds. I drink in the white light, see the tall blue sky, watch the hypnotic clouds…and get lost. It just plain feels good.

And watching...I like to watch. It's an artform. Walk down the street and stare a few people ahead...glance away as they draw near. On the Metro, stare casually, always moving your eyes away as soon as the "watchee" looks at you. I have learned how to dress, tie a foulard, make-up techniques, even how to walk...Parisien women walk almost like runway models...they don't have an aggressive stride...they walk with a lilt...by watching. Watching Paris is music to my eyes.

After 4 visits, I decided I wanted to relocate here, and, not being independently wealthy, need to work. This is a dicey proposition for a non-EU member. This is my sixth visit, I’m a student now (studying French) and can work…teaching English. I have a wonderful studio apartment that I love, it’s large and a bit shabby, with huge windows, fully furnished, internet, phone, cable t.v.—I feel like the luckiest girl on earth!

Yesterday was Valentine’s Day. I went in search of interesting photo opportunities…particularly of couples. Couldn’t find any. But, the open market near my home was very busy, so here are some pictures of people at the market. People are very serious about food here.

Questions are welcome…look forward to hearing from you! Lilou