Paris--I Like to Watch

I came to Paris on a “use it or lose it” ticket. My year to “use it” was just about up, so I ventured forth in April 2006. George Bush was in office and I thought the people of Paris may not be so welcoming to an American. I studied French before coming so I could be polite. Other than that, I had no preconceived notions—no vie en rose ideas—about Paris. A virgin page…

Well, people here were great. My first day, I joined a city-wide manifestation (demonstration) against Chirac. I saw almost all of Paris in one afternoon due to the students of the Sorbonne. That same day, I met a student, who introduced me to her family, who subsequently invited me to their home for a 5-course dinner overlooking the Bassin de Villette.

I toured Paris by walking from park to park. It gave me the opportunity to talk to people along the way, and to “feel” the people and the city by being in local neighborhoods. Many conversations have been had by merely shoving my mini-Larousse back and forth across the table.

People in Paris read the news and formulate opinions on it…and whether they’re right or wrong, they have strong, considered opinions. They are passionate about—everything—and can discuss the smallest details forever. And, they are warm-hearted and kind. I have never had a bad experience with any French people since I’ve been here…not even the waiters.

Besides the people, there is the sky and the clouds. This is difficult to explain, but, the sky seems to be taller than that over the ocean. The light has a clarity I’ve never experienced before…it seems to be pure white, untainted with yellows. The layered clouds entrance me. The layers always move, frequently at different speeds. I drink in the white light, see the tall blue sky, watch the hypnotic clouds…and get lost. It just plain feels good.

And watching...I like to watch. It's an artform. Walk down the street and stare a few people ahead...glance away as they draw near. On the Metro, stare casually, always moving your eyes away as soon as the "watchee" looks at you. I have learned how to dress, tie a foulard, make-up techniques, even how to walk...Parisien women walk almost like runway models...they don't have an aggressive stride...they walk with a lilt...by watching. Watching Paris is music to my eyes.

After 4 visits, I decided I wanted to relocate here, and, not being independently wealthy, need to work. This is a dicey proposition for a non-EU member. This is my sixth visit, I’m a student now (studying French) and can work…teaching English. I have a wonderful studio apartment that I love, it’s large and a bit shabby, with huge windows, fully furnished, internet, phone, cable t.v.—I feel like the luckiest girl on earth!

Yesterday was Valentine’s Day. I went in search of interesting photo opportunities…particularly of couples. Couldn’t find any. But, the open market near my home was very busy, so here are some pictures of people at the market. People are very serious about food here.

Questions are welcome…look forward to hearing from you! Lilou